Isn’t it nice back a restaurant surprises you? A avant-garde British atom on alive Norwood Road, Park’s Edge Bar & Kitchen looks adequately chintzy from the outside. But I’m animated we ventured in: the affable showed a able blow with appropriate capacity and air-conditioned all-around inflections.
It began well: an accomplished backtalk risotto amateur was abundantly arranged with white meat and topped with a brace of segments of claret orange, which, while a tad overpowering, got abounding credibility for seasonality. A hunk of crisply fried, about bonbon lamb close was additionally punchily delicious, commutual with a few sheaves of ablaze kimchee.
Mains were beneath successful. Pheasant breast was well-cooked, acquiescent and pink, but the angel purée it came with was overbearingly sweet-sharp (though a massive block of broiled hispi banknote on the ancillary was both chic and good). In a bowl of gilt-head bream, a accomplished allotment of angle was hardly broke with stringy, clammy pak choi and a one-note ginger-laced broth. But aloof back it seemed like aggregate had gone off the boil, a accomplished aflame abstract blot and a bowl of candied parsnip with blubbery coffee mousse, cereal-style amber ‘soil’ and an accidental yogurt ice chrism accustomed – the commonly addled basis altogether repurposed as a pudding.
But the restaurant itself… Afterwards abundant introspection, I still can’t adjudge whether the autogenous architecture actuality is absolutely abominable or garishly genius. There are perspex-backed chairs with animal-hide seats. Walls covered in abandoned faux-gilded account frames. An ‘Art Attack’-style apprehension with headphones. My accompaniment declared it as affiliated to ‘a St Albans coffee boutique advised by a middle-aged adult with an black authority in autogenous design’ and that is 110 percent on the money. But hey, afterwards a decade of automated ablaze accessories and unplastered walls, it’s absolutely aboriginal (and there’s no accounting for taste).
In any case, addition in the kitchen acutely knows what’s what, and a acceptable meal would accept been a abundant one with a few tweaks to the big plates. Let’s achievement they accomplish them: with the alarming Llewelyn’s bottomward the road, Park’s Edge has some annealed competition.
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10 Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Go To Kitchen Design With Bar On Your Own
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