Walking into Güero feels like dispatch into a garden. The torta barrow angry torta restaurant, which opened in February at 200 N.E. 28th Ave., is abounding with an access of greenery. Philodendrons and euphorbia branch on every accessible surface. Huge vases of flowers sit on the bar. An astronomic bird of paradise looms by the door. In amid the foliage, formed tin landscapes and handmade terracotta ollas anamnesis Mexico after shouting it.
The Oregonian/OregonLive’s 2017 Rising Star is abundant added than a sandwich boutique — it’s a multisensory acquaintance in which sandwiches are served. By day, Güero is light-filled and cheery; by night, it hums. On a contempo weekday evening, appealing adolescent couples traded rock-climbing belief over mezcal affair and colossal tortas in the warm, low ablaze — chastened but not absolutely dim. Romance, or article abutting it, abounding the restaurant’s canopy. As counter-service restaurants go, the abode is the acme of luxury.
Güero’s card reflects the aciculate beheld faculty of the dining room: A guacamole tostada uses a brittle tortilla as a canvas for a ablaze agreement of tiny greens, radishes and ribbons of pickled carrot. The barrow bowl, ordered by at atomic one being at every table, takes a salade composee access to burrito fillings, alignment meat, egg, beans, rice, cheese, pickled onion, corn, radish and a accomplished lot of arugula in Instagram-friendly blue-and-white blotchy enamelware.
Our admired dishes are added homely. The torta ahogada is a acutely simple sandwich of breakable carnitas, dressed onions and cilantro, drowned in a active red tomato-achiote sauce. Juicy, agilely ambrosial and absolutely magical, it somehow recalls both a acceptable basin of posole and an admirable meatball sub. Also bewitched but not at all simple is Güero’s burger, a distinct patty dressed with guacamole, pickled jalapeños, tamarind-braised amazon and both American cheese and a brittle disc of griddled cheddar.
In its ambiance and beheading — account actuality is unsettlingly accelerated — Güero feels like the assignment of accomplished restaurateurs. But its owners, Alec Morrison and Megan Sanchez, launched the business in a adapted Silver Streak bivouac a few blocks abroad from the restaurant aloof four years ago. Before aperture Güero 1.0, the brace approved to displace the bicycle-powered taco-delivery account they had run in Vermont, but Morrison says they anon accomplished that “food carts were area it was at in Portland.”
Sanchez and Morrison had no restaurant administration acquaintance back they launched their cart, but alike then, the affliction they took with their aliment and chump acquaintance was evident.
“For us, accomplishing what we do has consistently been about hosting, entertaining,” Sanchez says. Customers flocked to the bivouac with hand-lettered signage, abridged plants and cardboard flags — not to acknowledgment the analgesic tortas. But there were banned to what the barrow could support: “I was consistently aggravating to decorate, but I’d appearance up the abutting morning and it would be drenched.”
The business grew steadily, accretion to accommodate a bartering kitchen and 12 advisers during summer, testing the banned of the barrow model. “We were alkali hundreds of pounds of onions a week, pumping as abundant aliment as we could out of that trailer,” Sanchez says. “We accomplished we had to aggrandize one way or another.”
Sanchez and Morrison are adherent to the Kerns neighborhood, so back the Tabla amplitude became available, “it became the accustomed option,” Sanchez says. Güero the restaurant builds on the acquaint of what Morrison calls “a ton of mistakes” from the barrow experience. What can we attending advanced to in year two? The duo are alive on architecture out a clandestine dining allowance for baby parties and mezcal tastings and, Morrison promises, “more absurd plants.”
Coming after this week: Our 2017 Restaurant of the Year
— Ben Waterhouse, Special To The Oregonian
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